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dc.contributor.advisorSteyn, H. J. H.
dc.contributor.authorNel, Jana Frannie
dc.date.accessioned2015-09-10T09:44:59Z
dc.date.available2015-09-10T09:44:59Z
dc.date.copyright2007-11
dc.date.issued2007-11
dc.date.submitted2007-11
dc.identifier.urihttp://hdl.handle.net/11660/1216
dc.description.abstractEnglish: Silk occupies a unique position as a textile fibre with a rare combination of beauty and strength. Production and processing of silk is labour intensive which leads to high cost and limited production of the silk fibre. Unfortunately the high cost of silk makes it unaffordable for many consumers; therefore mixed yarn fabrics could be constructed in order to lower the price of the fabric, without changing the unique properties of the silk negatively. The aim of this study was to evaluate and compare the properties of Gonometa postica silk fabric with the properties of mixed yarn fabrics consisting of Gonometa postica silk weft on a wool warp, and Gonometa postica silk weft on an acrylic warp. This is done in order to determine which of the wool or the acrylic create a more suitable mixed yarn fabric with the Gonometa postica silk. Standard methods were used to evaluate the abrasion resistance (ASTM 4966), tensile strength and elongation (ISO 13934), stiffness (BS 3356 ), crease recovery (AATCC 66), fabric thickness (BS 2544), dimensional change (AATCC 99) and moisture regain (ASTM 2654). Analysis of variance supported the interpretation of the results of the tests. The Gonometa postica silk textile fabric has relatively good abrasion resistance, with a mean value of 28 750 rubs necessary to break two yarns. The Gonometa postica silk weft/wool warp test fabric showed very good abrasion resistance with a mean value of 51 000 rubs required to break two yarns. And the Gonometa postica silk weft/acrylic warp test fabric also showed relatively good abrasion resistance, although it was lower than the other test fabrics with a mean value of 25 197 rubs needed to break two yarns. The Gonometa postica silk test fabric had the largest weight loss, while the Gonometa postica silk weft/wool warp fabric had the smallest weight loss. Tensile strength and displacement were measured and the Gonometa postica silk fabric had the highest mean maximum load necessary to break the silk weft yarns of 492.317 N and the mean displacement at maximum load was 39.048 mm. The Gonometa postica silk weft/acrylic warp fabric had the lowest mean maximum load that the silk weft yarns could carry before break at 347.910 N and the displacement was 34.465 mm. The bending lengths of all the samples were small enough to indicate that it has good draping qualities, considering the thickness of the fabrics. The Gonometa postica silk weft/wool warp fabric showed the best crease recovery especially in the warp direction (145°), while the Gonometa postica silk fabric had the worst crease recovery especially in the warp direction (128°). The Gonometa postica silk weft/Gonometa postica warp fabric was thinner than the Gonometa postica silk weft/wool warp fabric and the Gonometa postica silk weft/acrylic warp fabric. The moisture regain of the Gonometa postica silk fabric was found to be 13%, while the Gonometa postica silk weft/wool warp fabric had a moisture regain of 11% and the Gonometa postica silk weft/acrylic warp fabric had a moisture regain of 8.6%. The Gonometa postica silk weft/wool warp fabric and the Gonometa postica silk weft/acrylic warp fabric had no shrinkage in the warp directions. The Gonometa postica silk fabric showed more shrinkage in the warp direction than in the weft direction. No residual shrinkage was found. This lead to the conclusion that the wool would be the best fibre to mix with the Gonometa postica silk as it enhanced some of the properties of the silk, without influencing the properties negatively.en_ZA
dc.description.abstractAfrikaans: Sy beslaan ‘n unieke posisie as tekstielvesel met ‘n skaars kombinasie van skoonheid en sterkte. Produksie en prosessering van sy is arbeids-intensief en dit lei tot hoë koste en beperkte produksie van sy. Ongelukkig lei hierdie hoë pryse daartoe dat dit onbekostigbaar is vir baie verbruikers, aarom kan gemengde garing stowwe gemaak word om die prys van die tekstielstof te verlaag, sonder om die unieke eienskappe van die sy negatief te beïnvloed. Die doel van hierdie studie was om die eienskappe van die tekstielstowwe wat bestaan uit Gonometa postica-sy-inslag op wol-skering en Gonometa postica-sy-inslag op akriel-skering te evalueer en dit dan met Gonometa postica-sy- ekstielstof te vergelyk. Dit word gedoen om te kan bepaal watter van die wol of akriel geskik sal wees om met die Gonometa postica-sy te meng. Standaard metodes was gebruik om slytweerstand (ASTM 4966), breek sterkte (ISO 13934), styfheid (BS3356), kreukelherstel (AATCC 66), material dikte (BS2544), krimping (AATCC 99) en vogbyslag (ASTM 2654) te evalueer. Variansie analise was aangewend met die interpretasie van die resultate. Die Gonometa postica-sy-inslag/Gonometa postica-sy-skering tekstielstof het goeie slytweerstand getoon, met ‘n gemiddeld van 28 750 vrywe nodig om twee drade te breek. 195 Die Gonometa postica-sy-inslag/wol-skering tekstielstof toon baie goeie slytweerstand met ‘n gemiddeld van 51 000 vrywe nodig om twee drade te breek. Die Gonometa postica-sy-inslag/akriel-skering tekstielstof het ook goeie slytweerstand alhoewel dit laer as die ander tekstielstowwe was met ‘n gemiddeld van 25 197 vrywe voor twee drade gebreek het. Die Gonometa postica-sy-tekstielstof het die meeste gewigsverlies gehad terwyl die Gonometa postica-sy-inslag/wol-skering tekstielstof die minste gewigsverlies gehad het. Breeksterkte en verplasing was geëvalueer en die Gonometa postica-sytekstielstof het die grootste gemiddelde maksimum vrag van 492.317 N gedra voordat dit gebreek het, met ‘n verplasing van 39.048 mm. Die Gonometa postica-sy-inslag/akriel-skering tekstielstof het die kleinste gemiddelde maksimum vrag gedra van 347.910 N voordat dit gebreek het, met ‘n verplasing van 34.465 mm. Die buiglengtes van al drie die tekstielstowwe was klein genoeg om aan te dui dat dit goeie drapeervermoë het, veral as die dikte van die tekstielstowwe in ag geneem word. Die Gonometa postica-sy-inslag/wol-skering tekstielstof het die beste kreukelherstel getoon (145˚) in die skering rigting, terwyl die Gonometa postica-sy-tekstielstof die swakste kreukelherstel getoon het (128˚) in die skering rigting. Die Gonometa postica-sy-tekstielstof was baie dunner die ander tekstielstowwe. Die vogbyslag van die Gonometa postica-sy-tekstielstof was 13%, terwyl die Gonometa postica-sy inslag/wol-skering tekstielstof ‘n vogbyslag van 11% gehad het en die Gonometa postica-sy-inslag/akriel-skering tekstielstof ‘n vogbyslag van 8.6% het. 196 Die Gonometa postica-sy-inslag/wol-skering tekstielstof en die Gonometa postica-sy-inslag/akriel-skering tekstielstof het beide geen krimping in die skering rigting getoon nie. Die Gonometa postica-sy-tekstielstof het meer krimping in die skering rigting as in die inslag rigting getoon. Geen residuele krimping is gevind nie. Hierdie resultate het gelei tot die gevolgtrekking dat die wol die beste vesel sal wees om met die Gonometa postica-sy te meng, omdat van die sy se eienskappe verbeter het sonder om ‘n negatiewe invloed op ander eienskappe te toon.af
dc.language.isoenen_ZA
dc.publisherUniversity of the Free Stateen_ZA
dc.subjectMixed yarn fabricsen_ZA
dc.subjectAbrasion resistanceen_ZA
dc.subjectTensile strengthen_ZA
dc.subjectStiffnessen_ZA
dc.subjectMoisture regainen_ZA
dc.subjectCrease recoveryen_ZA
dc.subjectShrinkageen_ZA
dc.subjectWoolen_ZA
dc.subjectGonometa postica silken_ZA
dc.subjectTextile fabrics -- Evaluationen_ZA
dc.subjectWool fabricsen_ZA
dc.subjectSilken_ZA
dc.subjectAcrylic fibersen_ZA
dc.subjectDissertation (M.Sc. (Microbial, Biochemical and Food Biotechnology))--University of the Free State, 2007en_ZA
dc.subjectAcrylicen_ZA
dc.titleThe evaluation of mixed yarn fabrics of Gonometa postica silk, acrylic and woolen_ZA
dc.typeDissertationen_ZA
dc.rights.holderUniversity of the Free Stateen_ZA


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