Microbial, Biochemical and Food Biotechnology
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Browsing Microbial, Biochemical and Food Biotechnology by Subject "Abrasion resistance"
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Item Open Access The evaluation of mixed yarn fabrics of Gonometa postica silk, acrylic and wool(University of the Free State, 2007-11) Nel, Jana Frannie; Steyn, H. J. H.English: Silk occupies a unique position as a textile fibre with a rare combination of beauty and strength. Production and processing of silk is labour intensive which leads to high cost and limited production of the silk fibre. Unfortunately the high cost of silk makes it unaffordable for many consumers; therefore mixed yarn fabrics could be constructed in order to lower the price of the fabric, without changing the unique properties of the silk negatively. The aim of this study was to evaluate and compare the properties of Gonometa postica silk fabric with the properties of mixed yarn fabrics consisting of Gonometa postica silk weft on a wool warp, and Gonometa postica silk weft on an acrylic warp. This is done in order to determine which of the wool or the acrylic create a more suitable mixed yarn fabric with the Gonometa postica silk. Standard methods were used to evaluate the abrasion resistance (ASTM 4966), tensile strength and elongation (ISO 13934), stiffness (BS 3356 ), crease recovery (AATCC 66), fabric thickness (BS 2544), dimensional change (AATCC 99) and moisture regain (ASTM 2654). Analysis of variance supported the interpretation of the results of the tests. The Gonometa postica silk textile fabric has relatively good abrasion resistance, with a mean value of 28 750 rubs necessary to break two yarns. The Gonometa postica silk weft/wool warp test fabric showed very good abrasion resistance with a mean value of 51 000 rubs required to break two yarns. And the Gonometa postica silk weft/acrylic warp test fabric also showed relatively good abrasion resistance, although it was lower than the other test fabrics with a mean value of 25 197 rubs needed to break two yarns. The Gonometa postica silk test fabric had the largest weight loss, while the Gonometa postica silk weft/wool warp fabric had the smallest weight loss. Tensile strength and displacement were measured and the Gonometa postica silk fabric had the highest mean maximum load necessary to break the silk weft yarns of 492.317 N and the mean displacement at maximum load was 39.048 mm. The Gonometa postica silk weft/acrylic warp fabric had the lowest mean maximum load that the silk weft yarns could carry before break at 347.910 N and the displacement was 34.465 mm. The bending lengths of all the samples were small enough to indicate that it has good draping qualities, considering the thickness of the fabrics. The Gonometa postica silk weft/wool warp fabric showed the best crease recovery especially in the warp direction (145°), while the Gonometa postica silk fabric had the worst crease recovery especially in the warp direction (128°). The Gonometa postica silk weft/Gonometa postica warp fabric was thinner than the Gonometa postica silk weft/wool warp fabric and the Gonometa postica silk weft/acrylic warp fabric. The moisture regain of the Gonometa postica silk fabric was found to be 13%, while the Gonometa postica silk weft/wool warp fabric had a moisture regain of 11% and the Gonometa postica silk weft/acrylic warp fabric had a moisture regain of 8.6%. The Gonometa postica silk weft/wool warp fabric and the Gonometa postica silk weft/acrylic warp fabric had no shrinkage in the warp directions. The Gonometa postica silk fabric showed more shrinkage in the warp direction than in the weft direction. No residual shrinkage was found. This lead to the conclusion that the wool would be the best fibre to mix with the Gonometa postica silk as it enhanced some of the properties of the silk, without influencing the properties negatively.